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April 2006

April 24, 2006

Rolling Grape Leaves

Throwing a big party can be a challenge for even the most talented and prolific entertainer. Recently, my good friend and fellow foodie Janet Conomos was planning to host forty people for an incredible spread of Greek food that would include her homemade stuffed grape leaves, dolmades. On top of all of the other dishes she needed to prepare, Janet was dreading the thought of stuffing and rolling 150 of these tasty morsels. As we sat at her kitchen reviewing the menu, she toyed with the idea of hiring a caterer to make the stuffed leaves for her. This would make things easier and give her more time to prepare for the event. The trouble, however, was finding someone who would follow her recipe and navigate through the tedious process of washing the leaves, trimming the stems, making the filling, rolling, cooking the leaves, and so on and so on and so on. The process, as she explained it to me, sounded a little unexciting and far from simple, so we both doubted that any caterer would be willing to take the time.

Janet has taught me many things about Greek culture and food. She's guided me through the making of avgolemono (chicken-lemon) soup, introduced me to taramosalata (cod roe dip) and opened my eyes and my palate to the wonder of fresh lemon juice in cooking. It was my turn to give back, so I insisted that she teach me how to make stuffed grape leaves and, in return, I would wash, trim, roll and do my very best to imitate her flavours while making life just a little simpler for a good friend.

The four or five hours we spent in her kitchen cooking and chatting were wonderful. As we sat there rolling the leaves and catching up on our family and friends (think Greek- style quilting circle), I realized that the process of cooking, though long and tedious at times, is so much more special and simple when you have someone to share it with. So grab a good friend, a jar of grape leaves, a glass of wine and start rolling. This recipe is worth it!

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April 15, 2006

Porcini Risotto

On a recent trip to Italy I had the chance to hike in the Alps in a region famous for its wild Porcini Mushrooms. Watching the Swiss and the Italians hunting for these tasty fungi was so interesting and also inspirational. The town we stayed in, Stresa, was right on Lago Maggiore and very close to the mountains. Every day, after our adventures, we would head into town to the local wine merchant, Rosaria Bolla, and tell her about our day trips. After the hike in the Alps she and I got to talking about Porcini mushrooms and how to best use these epicurean delights. Rosaria is a big fan of risotto with Porcini and she prefers Canaroli rice to Aborio. Having never used Canaroli I was thoroughly inspired. After buying the rice and dried Porcinis from the Wine shop Rosaria shared Porcini Risotto recipe with me. It was delicious. Many thanks to Rosaria and her family for being our ad-hoc concierge while visiting Stresa. If you are ever in this beautiful town please stop by and give her my best. The name of the shop is La Cambusa on Via Cavour in Stresa.

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