Ratatouille
I wrote earlier about the Oscar-movie themed dinner that Jeffrey & I made this past Sunday for several friends. Last week, we brainstormed about what foods to prepare, and settled almost immediately on meat pies and ratatouille as our core dishes. For both of us, Sweeney Todd and Ratatouille were among our favorite films last year, and of course they both tied in perfectly to a concept dinner served on Oscar night.
Jeffrey had made ratatouille twice last fall, but I was out of town for both occasions. During our menu planning for this past weekend, he told that he first tried to make the dish as was done in the movie, with the vegetables sliced thinly using a mandoline and then delicately arranged. This effort, in Jeffrey's words, fell flat on its face. Rather than being delicate, he said, it was just mushy. Frustrated but undaunted, on his next attempt he took what I thought was a daring risk and went robust instead of delicate. He abandoned the artful thinly sliced presentation, and he grilled the vegetables rather than sauteeing them. This was a departure from tradition. While I usually advocate for a skilled and reasoned sojourn away from convention, this time I was suspicious. He assured me that it had come out brilliantly. And after we made it together this past Sunday using that same method, I was convinced. The result is an unconventional but marvelous ratatouille.
Jeffrey's Ratatouille:
Ingredients:
2 t. salt, divided
4 eggplant (see note 1 below), cut into long thick slices
6 small zucchini (or 3 larger ones), cut into long thick slices
2 medium-large red onions, cut into ¾" slices
2 large red peppers, cored, cut in half and flattened
3 T. olive oil
6 cloves garlic, finely minced
8 Roma (plum) tomatoes, chopped
1 15½ ounce can crushed tomatoes, including the juice
¾ t. dried savory
¾ t. dried crushed fennel seed
¾ t. dried thyme
¾ t. dried oregano
½ t. fresh cracked pepper
1 bunch fresh basil leaves, cut into long slices
Rub in half of the salt onto the thick eggplant slices in order to leach out some of the bitterness. Set aside for an hour or so and then use a paper towel to pat dry the beads of liquid that collect on them.
Grill the vegetables: Scrape your grill and then spray a bit of non-stick spray on it. Fire it up on medium high heat (to about 375-400 degrees). Working in batches if you need to, grill the eggplant, zucchini, onion and pepper. About 3-4 minutes per side, perhaps a bit more time each side for the onion. Take special care not to overcook the eggplant and zucchini – you want the result to be firm, not mush. Remove the veggies from the grill, and let cool a bit. Dice everything into 3/4" to 1" cubes.
Make the sauce: heat olive oil in a large sauce-pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and sauté for 3-4 minutes. Add the chopped fresh tomatoes, crushed tomatoes, the remaining salt and the dried spices. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes, until the fresh tomatoes have softened and some of the liquid from the can of tomatoes has evaporated. You will have what is basically a very savory tomato sauce.
Fold in the diced grilled vegetables and the fresh basil leaves into your tomato sauce, and serve.
This quantity easily fed 14 people as a side dish, and provided some leftovers to boot.
Note 1: on eggplant. We bought the very long skinny kind from Jeffrey's local farmers market at United Nations Plaza in San Francisco. It's fine to make this with the more traditional football shaped eggplant, but if so, then of course only use 2 eggplant rather than 4.
Note 2: Jeffrey, like me, is usually a fiend about using fresh rather than dried herbs. But we both agreed that in this dish, the smoky flavor of the veggies complemented the dried herbs. But I'm sure fresh would perfectly fine.



My nephew Sam loves to cook. He is very opinionated about food and at age 12 has a highly sophisticated palette. He'll eat anything from imported proscuitto to stinky morbier cheese. He also LOVES sushi. He has definitely inherited the foodie gene that seems to run in the family. So last weekend we decided we wanted to make homemade pizza and Sam was in charge of the sauce. He let it cook down for a while and would then taste, add more tomato paste and herbs and then taste again. He reminded me of Ratatouille.

