recipephile

The People of Sonoma - Mat Gustafson, Winemaker, Paul Mathew Vineyards

Paul Mathew wines were introduced to me at boon eat+drink right here in Guerneville where Mat and Barb, the winemaker and his wife, reside.  When I hosted a fundraiser dinner for our county supervisor Efren Carillo, they generously donated their time and their wines for the event.  Mat and Barb were gracious enough to invite me into their home so that I could learn more about who they are and the wine they make. 

Mat started his career in wine through restaurants and retail stores.  He was a wine buyer at the Oakville Grocer and also worked for John Ash, a renowned chef, author, and food and wine educator, who many refer to as the “Father of Wine Country Cuisine”.

He told me, “While I liked working in restaurants what I really wanted to do was make wine. That was my dream.” 

Mat started working at Oakville Ranch, which is now Miner Family and got to know and learn from Gary Brookman, the winemaker.  He also began planting vineyards with his former business partner Paul, which is where the name Paul Mathew comes from.

While Paul and Mathew planted traditionally spaced 8’x 8’vineyards, they also specialized in smaller 4’x 4’ rows, which led them to the name of their company Small Vines Viticulture.

In 1999 Mat set off on his own and bought Chardonnay grapes from Dutton Ranch.  He made his first Chardonnay with Erin Jordan as the consulting winemaker and winemaker for the famed Turley Wines. In 2001, he sold his share of Small Vines Viticulture and began working at Sebastopol-Dutton Estate Winery. He started making wine under Merry Edwards, as she was the consulting enologist for the winery. In 2002, he was promoted to head winemaker as Merry handed the art of the winery's winemaking to Mat.

When I asked Mat about his philosophy behind winemaking he began explaining to me the importance of ‘native yeast’. “I never add commercial yeast to wine,” he said. “Native yeast already lives on the grapes and exists in 25-30 different strains.  When the yeast that handles early fermentation is done it dies off and a new strain takes over and that process slowly repeats itself until the wine has fully developed.”

According to Mat, commercial yeast, which is added to wines by most commercial winemakers, allows producers to make more wine much faster.  “The problem with this,” he explained, “is that faster fermentation builds up a higher temperature and ‘blows off’ all of the delicate flavors and aromas in the wine.”

He continued, “It’s like making a stew.  If you cook the ingredients for an hour the dish lacks depth, but if you let it set on the stove for hours the flavors meld together and you end up with something incredible.”

Mat is a low input winemaker.  He adds very little to the wine he makes and the result is definitely something incredible.  Mat also believes in making sure that he starts with the ‘cleanest’ grapes possible.  He does this by field sorting, which means he actually goes out into the vineyards and cuts away what he does not want to end up in the final yield that is crushed and used to produce his wines.

“Clean grapes have no holes in them, there are no raisins and the juice is not open to the air. If they are dirty the skin is weakened and the juice gets released too early. Going into the fields and removing the dirty ones we do not want ensures that they never get into the picking bin in the first place.”

While Mat is most famous for his Pinot Noir, he also has a fine Chardonnay from the grapes at Dutton Ranch and a Rose of Pinot Noir that is a blend of three vineyards, is full of flavor and delivers a crisp and light finish.

Our evening ended with an amazing lasagna that Barb prepared with the mushrooms that Mat foraged from the hills above his house.  We also enjoyed a bottle of Syrah that he made while working at Dutton Ranch.  The food and wine were a reminder of how connected we are to the land around us. 

Log on to Paul Mathew Vineyards to learn more and purchase his wines. 

 

Braised Rabbit Over Papperdelle

Usually I have a reason why a meal or idea for a recipe inspires me. There is usually a story behind a recipe, but this one is not really interesting.  

I had a wild hare in my butt and wanted to make rabbit.  So I headed to the meat man and picked up a dressed rabbit and headed over to Bob and Heidi's to cook it up.

This posting is being written while the rabbit is braising in the pot.  At the same time Bob is preparing some wild mushroom duxelle served with seared duck breast and zinfandel port reduction with black currants.  Tonights meal should be pretty tasty.

Making the braised rabbit over papperdelle is pretty easy. 

- 1 whole rabbit

- Olive oil 

- 3 cloves of garlic minced

- 1 carrot, diced

- 2 celery stalks, diced

- 1 medium sweet onion, diced

- 1/2 cup of vermouth

- 1 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped

- 1 large can of crushed tomatoes

Cut the rabbit into large pieces (about six).  Cover the bottom of a saute pan with olive oil and crank up the heat.  Brown the pieces of rabbit on both sides in the saute pan and set aside.

Now cover the bottom of a stock pot with olive oil and crank up the heat to medium.  Saute the garlic and toss in the bay leaf, carrots, celery and onions and sweat until cooked through.  Increase the heat to high and add in the vermouth.  Reduce until there is very little liquid left and then add in the rosemary, tomatoes and the rabbit.

Cover, cook for about 1 hour, remove the lid and let cook for another 20 minutes on low to medium heat.

Serve over papperdelle, sprinkle parmesan on top and pour yourself a glass of 2009 Graton Ridge Petit Sirah.

Kitchen Tip - Organize Silverware In The Dishwasher

One of the main reasons that I hate loading and unloading the dishwasher is because of the silverware.  Stuffing the silverware in there and getting it all to fit after a dinner party is no fun at all.  

A few days ago I threw a party for a friend of mine and had someone come in and help me clean up.  He did all of the dishes and pots and pans and was a real savior.  He left at the end of the party and told me that he had loaded the dishwasher and started it for me.

Ugh, I thought to myself, I am going to have to unload it when it is done. So I waited until the cycle ended and opened it up to find the most organized dishwasher I had ever seen.

The plates were organized by size as well as the glassware.  But my favorite thing of all was the organized silverware.  The forks, knives and spoons were all organized in separate compartments making the unloading much easier.  I was able to reach in, grab a slew of silverware and drop it right into its rightful spot in the drawer.  No fumbling around organizing on the fly.  it was done for me.

How could something so obvious escape me?  Now I know and so do you.

Sonoma Source - Krave Beef Jerky

Beef Jerky is a great snack right before a workout or in the middle of the day when you are craving something savory. It is a great source of protein, provides between seven and 12 grams of protein, two grams of carbohydrate (two grams of sugar), and less than five grams of saturated fat, and is trans-fat free.   Jerky is also an excellent source of zinc at 11% of recommended daily values and is also high in iron (6%).

The company that makes one of my new favorites is Krave, located conveniently in Sonoma, CA and also online so that anyone, anywhere can get their hands on this great product.

Right now my diet consists of about six meals a day that are low in calories and high in protein (okay I admit I fall off of the wagon at times).  Right before a hike or bike ride I try to nibble on something that will give me energy and keep me satiated for the hour and half I spend in the woods, on a bike or in front of the TV at the mercy of Tony Horton and P90X.   

The chili lime jerky is pretty tasty. Slightly spicy and sweet with the refreshing bite of lime.  This is a great alternative snack that keeps me going.  Jerky has a tendency to make me want water, so make sure you have some on hand.  

 

 

A Twist on Tomato Salsa

The other day I had dinner over at Heidi and Bob's house.  Bob was preparing leg of lamb that would be served with a tomato salsa.

This one was a little different than what many of us are used to and was the perfect accompaniment for the meat.  I actually think this would do well on a piece of salmon or mahi mahi. You could also top a piece of grilled chicken with this or heap it onto a turnkey sandwich.

The lesson here is that this is one versatile topping and it is easy to make as well.

 

 

Here is what you will need:

- 1.5 lbs of ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced

- 1/2 tsp fennel seeds (toasted)

- 1/2 cup of Nicoise or Kalamata olives pitted and chopped

- 3 tbsp red wine vinegar

- 1/3cup of extra virgin olive oil

Mix the ingredients together about 1 hour before serving and let rest so that the flavors meld.  Taste before serving and add a dash of salt if needed.

 

Getting Creative With Cheese Platters

Last night I hosted some friends for a 40th birthday party and worked all day preparing the meal.  As is the case with any dinner party I host there is usually a cheese platter with sliced baguette for people to munch on before dinner.  And as usual, I spent about 5 or 6 minutes before the party arranging the cheese on the platter.  When I was done I took one look and thought -- that is kind of boring and the cheese looks a little lonely.

So I started thinking about what else I could do with the cheese. Hmmm... what would complement each of the cheeses on the platter, I thought to myself. So... next to the chevre I added some clementine wedges.  The D'Affinois Blue was paired with quince jelly and the Jarslberg was accompanies by Alexander Valley Gourmet Manhattan Style pickles and a homemade roasted garlic mustard.

The guests devoured the cheeses and loved the pairings.   So next time you create a cheese or crudite platter think about how you can do it a little differently.  Get creative.

Mushroom Foraging With Heidi - Black Trumpets

Heidi called me today and told me that she had the skinny on where we could find black trumpet mushrooms.  She said I could go foraging with her, but I had to promise not to tell anyone where we were going.  

Apparently, foragers are VERY hush hush about where they find their goods. After reluctantly agreeing I headed over to her house and we set off on an adventure.  

Having never been foraging before I had a few things to learn. One of them, which is something that I am not very good at, is patience.  

Foragers spend a lot of time eyeing the ground and digging through leaves in an effort to find their gold.  After about 45 minutes with lots of nothing Heidi shrieked.  She had found a gathering of black trumpets, which we quickly snatched up.  All told we ended up with about four handfuls of shrooms.  Not enough for a full meal, but just enough for a tasty appetizer.

When we got home Heidi cleaned the mushrooms and sauteed them with olive oil, shallots, sherry and salt and pepper.  She topped rounds of grilled polenta with the sauteed mushrooms and shaved some parm on top before serving.

AMAZING and we found them ourselves.

 

 

Sonoma Source - McEvoy Ranch Olio Nuovo and Torta Frita Recipe

Olive oil is often one of the leading ingredients in many of the meals that I prepare and serve.  From the beginnings of a marinara sauce at the bottom of a sauce pan to the finishing off of a soup with just a drizzle before serving, the earthiness of a fine Olive Oil has the power to magically alter a dish in so many flavorful ways.

McEvoy Ranch is known for their oils.  So when I spotted a bottle of Olio Nuovo while shopping in Sonoma it called to me and I had to give it a try.

As is the case with many products grown, harvested and produced in this region from orchard to bottle McEvoy oils are certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF).

Their olives are grown, harvested, milled, blended and bottled entirely on the ranch. According to their site, at Tuscan agronomist and olive oil production consultant Maurizio Castelli's recommendation, in 1997 they imported the "Maserati of olive oil mills" (our state-of-the-art Rapanelli frantoio), now an integral part of the cold-process production unique to McEvoy Ranch.

Olio Nuovo ("New Oil") is available for only a few short months following autumn's harvest. The oil is bottled immediately, without filtration, and has a vibrant green color, rich fruit flavor and a peppery finish.  Although it was supposed to be past its prime (I just tested the oil the other day) it held up to what I know of nuovo oils.  It has a peppery and grassy taste that blended well with the cauliflower, leek and parsnip soup we prepared as well as with the sauteed kale with lemon and garlic.

The star of the evening however was the Torta Frita that my good friend Bob and I prepared. My grandmother used to make this when I stayed with her for the weekends while my parents, sister and brother would haul off to go skiing.  This is one of the dishes that we shared together and always bring back fond memories.

This went wonderfully with the Olio Nuovo and I definitely think you should give it a try.

Just about any pizza dough recipe will work with this. 

- 1 package of active dry yeast or 1/3 cake of fresh yeast

- 1 1/4 cups lukewarm water

- 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

- 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt

- Grated Parmeggiano Reggiano

Canola oil for frying

McEvoy Ranch Olio Nuovo

In a large mixing bowl dissolve the yeast in 1/2 cup of the lukewarm water. Let it proof for 10 minutes. Add the flour, salt, 1 tbsp olive oil, and rosemary and remaining water. Mix well and knead until the dough is smooth, about 10 minutes.

Let rise until the dough has doubled in size (about one hour), punch down the dough and let it rest for another 10 minutes. Roll out the dough with a wine bottle (this is how my Grandma did it) or rolling pin until it is pretty thin and cut into 3 or 4-inch squares.

Heat about 2 cups of Canola oil in a sauté pan over medium heat and fry up the pieces of dough until golden brown. It is best to turn and remove the puffy dough pieces with tongs and make sure you salt and sprinkle them with a little bit of the grated cheese as they come out of pan. Place on a paper towel to help absorb the grease, let cool and serve with a bowl of McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil for dipping and a bottle of Red Car Tomorrowland Syrah.

Sonoma Source - Toma Cheese From Vella Cheese Co.

A few weeks ago my friend Tim and I headed off to the town of Sonoma to check out The Girl and The Fig and spend some time with two great friends Courtney and Chris.

Our travels led us to the historic Buena Vista tasting room right outside of town.  Apparently, the tasting room is the oldest in the state of California. The Web site reads "Founded in 1857, Buena Vista Carneros is California’s oldest premium winery, and its history is as colorful as it is proud. Just outside the town of Sonoma, the original winery is now a California Historic Landmark, and home to our Tasting Room & Visitor’s Center."

We picked up some tasty cheese and a bottle of their 2007 Ramal Vineyard Chardonnay.  The wine paired well with one of the Sonoma Valley cheeses we were tasting.

The Toma cheese from Vella Cheese Co. is a soft, slightly-ripened cheese from the Piedmont area of the Italian Peninsula and was originally made on the farm or in small local factories. It was a regional cheese and as the factories became larger, Toma has been available in lesser amounts because it takes a great deal of hand labor and care. Vella believes they are the only US factory that makes Toma.

I loved the creaminess of this cheese as well as its slight bite it has.  Serve it with wine, bread and sweet fruit.

You can purchase it directly from the site.

Italian Shepherd's Pie With Creamy Rock Shrimp and Tarragon Butter

While eating at a bar in New York City the other night I glanced over at the person sitting next to me and noticed a delicious looking shepherd's pie.  Mounds of creamy potato on top with slow stewed beef down below and topped with a rich sauce.  

Since I was getting ready to prepare my friends Jessica and Kenny dinner the next evening I had food on the brain and was trying to come up with something unique.  The thought of shepherd's pie sounded appealing to me, but I wanted to steer clear from potatoes and beef.

Jessica and Kenny were married in Rome and so Italian food was the direction my mind was going. The final dish ended up, somewhat, mimicking the shepherd's pie.  On a bed of arugula I piled sauteed rock shrimp and then on top of that I cupped creamy polenta and then drizzled tarragon and lemon butter over the top.  It was delicious.

Here is what you will need:

- 4 cups of chicken broth

- 2 cups of yellow corn meal

- 1 cup of Greek yogurt (I use the Total brand)

- 1 cup of grated Parmeggiano Reggiano cheese

- Kosher salt to taste

- 5 tbsp of butter

- 1 tsbp of olive oil

- 3 cloves garlic minced

- 3 lbs of rock shrimp

- 1 lemon juiced

- 1/4 cup of tarragon chopped

- 6 handfuls (about one large container) of arugula

Start by preparing the polenta.  Bring the chicken broth to a boil.  Once boiling reduce heat to medium and slowly whisk in the corn meal and continue whisking until the mixture begins to thicken and you have no corn meal lumps.  Turn off the heat and with a wooden spoon fold in the yogurt and the cheese and continue to mix until the polenta is firm. Taste and add salt to your liking.  In total this should take 10-15 minutes.  Most recipes say it should take 20 or more minutes, but my polenta has never taken that long.  Set aside or place in moderately warm oven to keep.

Melt 1 tbsp of the butter and 1 tbsp of olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat.  Saute the garlic for about a minute or two.  Add in your shrimp and continue to saute until the shrimp are pink.  Remove from the pan and reserve the liquid.  Place back onto the burner and add in the remaining butter and let melt.  Pour in the lemon juice and add the tarragon and let simmer together until the liquid cooks down a bit.  Remove from heat.

This serves about six people so place a handful of arugula onto the center of each plate. Top with about a cup of shrimp, but note that you can distribute all of the shrimp evenly onto each plate and it does not matter if you have more than a cup. With a rounded and shallow measuring cup scoop out about 1/2 cup of polenta and press into the measuring cup to form a round. Top the shrimp with the polenta then drizzle some of the tarragon lemon butter on top.  

You should serve this dish with a tasty chardonnay.  I recommend the Lynmar Estate 2007 Russian River Valley Chradonnay.